The changing seasons bring changes into everyone’s skin conditions. Many are more sensitised from harsh winter temperatures, the constant artificially heated indoor climates & bitter outdoor weather conditions. Early Spring Skincare should focus on skin sensitivity and how to help restore the barrier function to maintain healthy skin.
Many feel they have sensitive skin when their skin is sensitised due to extrinsic factors. Data analyst Euromonitor found that 25% of consumers in 2017 were looking for products suitable for sensitive skin & almost 50% for hydrated skin. Sensitivity was also the second-most reported skin health concern with almost 30% of 15-19 and 30-44 year olds saying they have sensitive skin.
The website www.skinsensitivityrisk.com
calculates your location, geographical and environmental factors on the day.
In central London during commuting hours the sensitivity risk was very high due to pollution, temperature and humidity factors.
So how can we protect and combat skin sensitivity? With the 3 R’s of seasonal skincare- Refresh, Relax & Restore to keep that redness at bay.
If the skins barrier function is intact it helps prevent TEWL- trans epidermal water loss which can cause dehydration and lead to skin sensitivity. The barrier function should be intact like the roof of a house, laying flush to protect the interior. If it is impaired it has holes in it which causes products to penetrate too quickly causing a stinging or burning sensation. Dehydration can be caused by a variety of factors such as weather, air conditioning, heating, lack of water consumption, stress, etc. Even if you drink the required 2-3 litres of water a day, the skin can still be dehydrated from lifestyle factors such as exercise and socialising.
To help keep your skin soft, supple and hydrated use products with thirst quenching ingredients in them.
Calm Water Gel by Dermalogica contains two hydration power houses.
Cactus Pear Extract- cacti are desert fruits so they are succulent and retain moisture which helps the skin lock in hydration leaving it soft & hydrated.
Dual Hyaluronic Acid’s molecular structure is made up of small elements to hydrate deeper layers of the skin while larger elements quench the thirst of the outer layers. By hydrating growing cells the skin maintains a plumper appearance for longer.
After one application the skin is 109% more hydrated. Dermalogica Consumer Perception Test outcome was that 94% noticed their skin felt more hydrated both 8 hours after initial application and cumulatively after 4 weeks of use.
Moisturisers were most frequently used by generation X (35-49 year olds) as were cleansers, toners & sunscreen. It’s important for all ages to look after your skin. There isn’t a one stop shop for skincare, so by using a combination of products the skin is hydrated and protected against the elements reducing sensitivity. To add calm water gel into your regime- it can be used on its own, layered over a serum or under a moisturizer. I use this product over a serum at night and layered between a serum and an spf in the daytime for extra protection. One of my clients loves making her own skincare cocktails and she uses it mixed with a multivitamin masque & moisturiser.
Masques are a great way to give you skin an extra boost. Global information group NPD UK Beauty states that the face masque market is now valued at £10m. The calm water gel can be layered under a masque or mixed with one to add hydrating benefits. There are many ways to incorporate extra hydration into your regime. Refresh your skin twice daily for optimum benefits to help combat sensitivity.
London broke the annual air pollution limit 5 days into 2017! Oxford Street has become the world’s most polluted thoroughfare and pollution levels in The capital are regularly higher than Beijing- according to the world health organisation WHO’s air pollution guidelines.
Air pollution is made up of many things- polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH), volatile organic compounds (VOC), oxides, ozone, cigarette smoke, and five types of particulate matter (PM) each different sizes.
No skin is immune to particulate matter; 2.5 micrometers causes the most concern because it’s 20 times smaller than the human pore, so it literally can get under your skin. Sensitive skins are already more susceptible to ultra violet rays and subsequently more vulnerable to pollution. Oily skin is prone to damage with larger pores that attract pollution particles by sucking them in.
Sensitive skins have an impaired barrier function whilst oily skins are a magnet for pollution because the pores are open and full of sticky substance that draws pollution in. Ageing skin has a loss of elasticity and the barrier naturally weakens, so it is important to repair and restore the skin barrier function through product application.
To help combat skin sensitivity use a product to boost the barrier function. Whether you use it to help repair the skin at night, protect it during the day or when exercising a booster can be used on its own or mixed into your regime.
Barrier Defense Booster contains Triple Defense Complex, a specifically formulated mixture of lipids, squalene, & cermacides that reinforces the skin’s barrier function & protects against inflammation. Squalane comes from olives not shark liver, so it’s a fish-friendly ingredient that locks in moisture & boosts elasticity. Turmeric extract is an extremely powerful antioxidant that protects the skin with its oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) which binds free radicals to help prevent skin damage.
When its cold outside imagine all of the doors & windows open in your house and the thermostat on full blast- the air doesn’t know whether to stay in or go out. A damaged barrier function reacts in a similar way. The moisture in the skin is unsure whether to evaporate or hydrate the skin cells. By using a barrier defense booster it closes all the windows and doors protecting itself from the harsh elements, and the house reaches its optimal temperature. The skin is similar, when the barrier function is intact the skin can regulate its moisture levels and become more resilient against the elements. When moisture is locked in the skin can re-hydrate and prevent sensitivity.
Last winter we had the ‘Beast from the East’ with snow and bitter winds and then on a few days later the weather was 10C that’s basically a 20 degree difference in weather in a day! The Springtime has a variety of weather temperatures and conditions so it’s important to restore & protect the skin.
The skin has 10-12 layers of protective cells to guard against moisture loss, maintain elasticity and barrier function. The PM 2.5 penetrates through the protective layers causing inflammation from free radical damage. Free radicals are highly reactive & short lived little molecules that can cause harm to the skin. So if the skins barrier function is impaired then this can accelerated signs of ageing due to breakdown of collagen, increased pigmentation, uneven tone, redness, fine lines & wrinkles.
The aesthetic industry includes everything under the beauty umbrella but cosmetic surgery and adaptations has seen a significant rise. By the end of 2018, the global growth of aesthetic industry was predicted to reach £5.7 billion- the statistics portal 2019. To slow the signs of ageing and help restore the skin it’s essential to Pollution Proof the Skin to restore & protect the skin’s barrier function.
While we sleep our brain recharges and cellular repair amps up, the skin regeneration is at its best overnight. For those of you unfamiliar with the Carcadian rhythm it’s the natural repair cycle of the skin. It repairs itself the most between 9pm-12am. To maximise skin renewal, apply a sleep boosting serum like Sound Sleep Cocoon to rejuvenate skin overnight. This product aids deeper sleep and transforms the skin by the morning with a cocktail of ingredients such as Wu-zhu-yu Fruit, a traditional Chinese medicine that promotes visible radiance, and Kakadu Plum Extract, rich in antioxidants vitamin C, that clinically is shown to improve & brighten the skin tone.
World Sleep Day states that sleep problems affect health and quality of life for up to 45% of the world’s population. To help combat restlessness and promote sleep use essential oils French lavender, sandlewood & patchouli to give you a deeper level of sleep leaving you well rested in the morning.
One of the top 10 results of sleep loss from Web MD states that a lack of sleep can lead to dull skin and fine lines, and continual insufficient sleep can result in hypertension and many other issues.
7-9 hours of sleep is the recommended amount to enable the body to relax and restore its resources. The brain is able to clear out waste products that are associated with Alzheimer’s, which is one of Jeff Iliff’s, a neuroscientist’s top reasons to get a good night sleep. Not only does a good night sleep help prevent Alzheimer’s it helps the memory consolidate information to enhance problem solving & creativity.
The skin follows a similar process with melatonin, which is produced at night and is known for its antioxidant properties and lowering cortisol, which is a stress hormone that causes breakouts, and dehydration. With regular sleep patterns the body is able to produce more collagen to help plump out those fine lines and strengthen the skin. So you might not be able to get the required amount of sleep, but it’s important to maximize your pillow time with ingredients such as Persian Silk Tree Extract to reduce the signs of skin fatigue & restore vitality.
Dr Kinosian states that the skin renewal rate doubles at night, so use that to your advantage and apply products to your skin that help to repair and renew the skin while you sleep. The American academy of dermatology states you can look 2.5 years younger if you fall asleep quickly.
Keep your skin glowing and the redness at bay this spring by refreshing the skin with Hyaluronic Acid, restoring the skins barrier function and relaxing to enable the skin to repair itself while you sleep.
We are a Dermalogica stockist and Diana Jenner is on of the six National Brand Ambassadors, all products can be purchased on our website www.orchidsretreat.co.uk